The Serbs Chose War, Ruth Mitchel
25. NIGHTMARE JOURNEY
Now BEGAN A MOST EERIE RIDE, unreal as a nightmare. The busses, of
course completely unlighted, tore madly through the night. Bomb
holes ahead? No one seemed to give it a thought: the children must
be taken as far and as quickly as possible away from the horror.
Soon we discovered that our chauffeur had himself that morning lost
his wife and three small babies in the bombardment. Imagine the
bitterness in his heart to be saving only other people's children!
Huge-eyed, stiff in their seats, the children seemed concerned only
with protecting the sleeping tidies in their laps from the bumps.
They showed no sign of either fear or excitement.
Rain had begun to fall heavily. And now in the starless, stormy
night we began to pass dim, black silhouettes, an endless column of
troops on the march; artillery, wagons piled high with munitions and
hay; cavalry, the men humped in their saddles against the rain. They
were moving up toward Belgrade-but too late, too late.
Now and then a Chetnik, belt heavy with bunches of hand
grenades, coolly intent upon his business, would jump on the step of
the bus, ride a few miles, and be gone again. They noted my
uniform but made no sign.
At last we arrived in Mladenovats and alighted in the midst of a
huge crowd of refugees. It was now pouring very heavily. The children
were quickly led away. How often afterwards I thought of the
rows of small white faces with their huge black eyes and wondered
what had become of them!
We had stopped near the railroad station in a crowd packed
almost solid. Every hour or so a train would come in and the whole
mass of us would sway forward in a desperate scramble, so solid
that if one had fallen there would be no chance of getting up. Yet
that vast crowd, too, was absolutely silent.
We three held on tightly to each other, the little dogs well hidden.
At last we arrived on the platform. It was now about two o'clock in
the morning, and my friends could hardly stand with exhaustion. I
managed to shove them on top of someone's bundles under an
overhanging roof and seated myself on the steps just outside, almost
on their feet. The trains had stopped coming. There we stayed until
dawn, I in the happy position of having not only the pelting rain but
also the heavy gush from the roof going down the back of my neck.
Towards six o'clock the rain let up, then stopped. In the gray and
ghostly light of a somber dawn we saw each other clearly for the
first time: women still in their nightclothes as they had jumped from
bed the morning before; hair still in curlers or in straggling wisps; no
make-up; all tired, harassed, and half-drowned.
Thus stripped of artifice, we looked at each other-and burst into
roars of laughter! After that it was haute mode to look like nothing
ever seen before, and no one lifted a hand to beautify.
As our railway line appeared to have stopped operating, the
station master urged us to cross the fields toward a near-by branch
line where trains were running.
But in the growing light I had seen a row of boxcars drawn up on
a siding. And now, as I watched, the doors opened and strings of
horses were unloaded. Would not these horse vans have to return
south? Sure enough: hardly had the horses been unloaded when a
little engine came puffing up. Quickly I signaled to my friends to
return.
The crowd from the fields and more crowds from the town made
a mad dash to fill them. We three were first in, but the van became
so jammed that, at risk of missing my place, I decided to scout
around.
I ran along the line and found better luck than I could have hoped
for. The door of one van had jammed. Then I blessed the heavy dagger
I wore, for with it I succeeded in prying the doors apart. Just as
the train began to move I hoisted my friends in and clambered after
them. We had a whole van entirely to ourselves.
How lovely, how dreamlike was that day-long journey! Most of
the straw was wet, but some in the corners was dry and sweet.
This we piled under and over us. The little white curly dogs hopped
merrily about for a while and then snuggled down, content.
Hour after peaceful hour we lay, sometimes chatting and
sometimes dozing when the bumps of the springless truck allowed.
The train moved so slowly we could almost have run beside it. It
made countless stops. Two men jumped in, both elderly, to ride
awhile and share with us their food and their news: only the wildest
rumors, of course, always with the one refrain: "The British are
coming-America will send help."
Like an endless exquisite ribbon the sweet spring scenery
moved slowly by. We might have been across the world from the
rage and agony of war. Between the delicate gold-green shimmer
of new herbage the patient oxen turned the deep brown soil as they
had done these thousand years.
Few men were to be seen, and these were old. All the young ones
had gone to kill; to kill men whose deepest wish too, perhaps, was to
return again to their plows in other, northern valleys. In their bright
headshawls the women plodded stoically behind the oxen. Soon they
would be frantically herding their children up into the mountains;
soon the snug, pleasant villages among their groves of fruit trees
would be gone-scattered, burned, wiped from this fruitful earth, at
once so blessed and so bitterly cursed.
In the twilight we arrived at Chachak, that little town one day to
be famous as the birthplace of Draja Mihailovich. Again we
descended into the solidly packed crowd of refugees. Again it was
almost a shock to see no demonstrations of despair or even great
regret, no terror of the future. Just patient grimness.
Suddenly a voice in my ear: "Ha, here you are. I have lost my
mother in the crowd. Please hold this while I try to find her." I
turned and saw the fat and usually urbane but now very worried
face of a journalist friend, V., from Belgrade. He thrust into my
hands a large parcel loosely wrapped in newspaper.
It was heavy, it was slippery, and it was hot, so burning hot that
soon I could hardly hold it. Boiling grease began to trickle down my
fingers. An enticing fragrance stole upon the breeze. Those nearest
me began to sniff excitedly; they crowded closer till I was hemmed
in by a tight ring of eager noses, greedy eyes, and watering mouths.
That delicious odor was unmistakable: I was holding, oh joy, oh
miracle-a freshly roasted suckling pig!
A train came in. V. fought his way back to me, defeated-no
mother! We ran for the train, room was made for us in a freight car;
and promptly the little pig fulfilled its glorious destiny by vanishing
into twenty famished mouths.
Never on that journey of many days did I see anyone open a
package of food and eat alone: everything was shared. There was
nothing to buy, of course, and no food except what newcomers
brought with them, mostly the peasants' usual fare of whole-meal
bread, cheese, and onions, with sometimes a piece of fat sausage or
that ghastly delicacy, a sheep's head.
As we slowly chugged our bumpy way up into the mountains it
became very cold. There was no room to lie down, and the doors
were tightly closed. The air in the packed freight car became
unendurably foul. Just when I thought we must all surely faint, the
train would stop with a crash and, with a rush of fresh air, more
people would pile in on top of us until we seemed to be three deep.
Endless were those creeping night hours, while V. muttered
anxiously about his mother-until at last, when again we stopped
and the doors were opened, we saw that dawn had come. Snow
was falling heavily, and in the gray, wan light V. found his mother in
the same car with us, where she had been all night. They had
escaped the fate of so many other families: to be separated in the
crush of uprooted humanity, perhaps for years, perhaps for ever.
We all piled out. We were in Ujitse.
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